Hot sand on toes, cold sand in sleeping bags I’ve come to know that memories Were the best things you ever had The summer shone, beat down on bony backs So far from home, where the ocean stood Down dust and pine cone tracks
Oh, we slept like dogs down by the fire side Awoke to the fog where all around us The boom of summertime, yeah
We stood Steady as the stars in the woods So happy-hearted And the warmth rang true inside these bones As the old pine fell we sang Just to bless the morning
Oh, hot sand on toes, cold sand in sleeping bags I’ve come to know the friends around you Are all you’ll always have Smoke in my lungs, or the echoed stone Careless and young, free as the birds that fly With weightless souls now
Since moving to Denmark I have aspired to visit this garden in deepest Fyn. In the early 2000s, Peter Dalsgård fulfilled a dream to recreate the serenity and beauty of a traditional Japanese garden here in the countryside of Denmark, 9000km west of the mountainous islands of Japan.
6 years on and I finally managed to visit! The gardens are an exceptionally faithful reproduction of the gardens you will find in every corner of Japan. From the dynamic terrain and vistas of the outlook garden to the meditative minimalism of the temple and meditation gardens, many aspects of traditional garden design have been studiously explored and reproduced on the gentle slopes of the garden.
We took a few days in beautiful La Rochelle. The sun warmed our faces as we explored the charming streets, the crumbling facades of sun bleached townhouses providing the perfect backdrop for my snapshots.
Our first day in the land of the rising sun began gently with a stroll around the back streets of West Shinjuku. Mail was delivered by energetic postmen on mopeds, speed walking from gate to gate of the little dwellings squeezed along hilly single-track roads tucked beneath the looming shadows of corporate skyscrapers. Light rain prompted locals to pull out their umbrellas: pink, white, purple, transparent, but rarely black, each popping and vibrant against the dull backdrop of damp city streets. Vending machines are as omnipresent as the movies would have you believe, and sell every beverage you could hope for, from Red Bull to grape juice to super-sweet luke-warm coffee.
A Perfect Playground
We pottered along the length of Shinjuku Chuo Park from north to south, big M alternating between trespassing on the finely groomed shrub beds of the park and pleading for a playground. He was temporarily distracted by the cute tortoises in the pool behind the park’s impressive water feature and we enjoyed people watching as city workers ate lunch from bento boxes on park benches, but the moaning always resumed. So it was with a huge sense of relief that we found the entire south-western corner of the park dedicated to kids. M loved the climbing frame and big slide but Lucy had to stop him before he threw himself down a somewhat unique plaything: a concrete slope which, covered in a fine layer of water, was a death trap. We know this because I had a go, and have both the bruises and the damp trousers to prove it. (Update from day 2: in dry conditions the slide is both safe and great fun for kids)
The park is a pleasure to walk through and should be included as a restful pit stop on any Shinjuku itinerary. It is reminiscent of the most peaceful sections of New York’s Central Park, and with leaves slowly turning from green to infinite hues of golden yellow, red and brown, autumn is a great time to visit.
Local Specialities for Lunch
This locality is known for its ramen, and so we hunted down an authentic noodle experience for lunch. Our DK travel guide was either old or inaccurate because their recommendation did not exist but, unfazed, we squeezed in to a local neighbourhood lunch spot to sample some dipping ramen (“tsukemen”). I grappled with Maya whilst Lucy picked from an indecipherable menu of seemingly identical dishes and then solicited the help of the huge smiling waiter to place our order in the equally huge machine dominating the tiny entrance. When the ramen arrived we divided the generous single portion between the four of us and began slurping away. The flavour was superb, the soup much richer than a Wagamama ramen (I have limited ramen reference experiences!) and the pork was surprisingly tender and very tasty. And yes, we are pushing the boundaries of flexitarian this trip…
Our local ramen spot.
After a pit stop at the hotel for naps, we took the decision to risk an evening trip with tired kids for dinner. On our way big M grew frustrated at the amount of walking involved and began his rapid descent (it was instant) into terrible behaviour. His particular favourite is spitting in disgust at the moment. It took every ounce of patience and empathy in me to bring him back, which may be inspiration for a future post about dealing with angry behaviour!
We headed towards Shinjuku station and marvelled at the energy and vibrance of the tight web of streets west of the station before locating the restaurant we were searching for on the 14th floor of the huge Takashimaya Times Square mall next to railway lines. The restaurant, Katsukura, promised to be both “casual and kid friendly” according to Google, and looked lovely when we arrived, but the queue unfortunately was far too long for an impatient family of four, so we settled in to the nearby tempura joint for rice and perfectly deep fried prawns and veggies.
